Bamboo Odyssey » Austria | Bamboo Odyssey

Rivers Rising

Jules — Sat, 08 Jun 2013 05:34:00 +0000

Since April in France we have followed numerous canals and rivers, and apart from the trickles at source….without exception all of the water ways have been swollen, close to bursting and fast flowing, many already submerging park benches and low lying trees.

We have pretty much followed the Danube River, the mighty queen of rivers from its source in Donaueschingen in Germany to Budapest, Hungary. We took a slightly large detour and deviated near Passau heading up to Prague and then back south, rejoining the Danube nearing Vienna. Heading up to Prague we also attempted to follow the Vlatava River.

The Vltava left us speechless, 3 days pedal from where we joined it at lake Lipno in the Czech Republic. It begun as a small river, a stones throw to the opposite bank. Cycle touring you don’t actually see the river that often, even when following its general course. Busy roads, hills, towns, forests, all obscure its view. We had not seen water for 3 days of pedalling when somewhere near the Vltava we came to a bridge and were to cross to the other side. In maybe 150km the small river had become immense, the bridge a few kilometres long with the wide fast flowing river far below. The following day it joined a beautiful, scenic lake we had the pleasure of camping besides, and river again and then the fast flowing river that we left behind and that has apparently now submerged many areas of Prague.

Back on the Danube, just before Vienna, huge power stations and appearing more like a lake, this river is awesome. The station humming like whale song. And the river, its flowing fast. I was impressed by the size it had become way back in Passau where it was joined with the rivers Ilz and Inn. Back then we were moved from our camp site to high ground after a phone call to the site explaining water was coming. The Danube it is bigger than I could have imagined, is not at all like the small stream we chose to follow well over a month ago.

Our route, the Euro Velo 6 which follows the Danube from start to finish is closed with much of where we have already been reported as underwater. We left Budapest as the route we briefly inspected on June 5^th was close to being submerged and then underwater on June 6^th. The water is rising and expecting to peak at about 9 meters on 10^th or 11^th.

As the river rises we have ridden in circles, zig zagging the major roads that without warning throw up signage prohibiting bicycles. Neither the major book shop or petrol stations have had maps and our only map being suitable for submarines at present. We briefly decided to skip Croatia and Serbia heading for hills in Romania however, until we chose to ignore the signage we are pretty much stuck. Today we head back south and the unknown, will keep our distance from the river but head in that general direction. If needs be we will help with sand bags or shifting mud as its time to keep on moving.

Welcome to Bohemia

Jules — Sat, 11 May 2013 05:53:58 +0000

We were hoping to arrive in Czech Republic the day we left Passau, the Austrian climbs, no detailed map and some wrong turns up very steep hills, hills leading to know where, resulted in one night by the river in Haslach Im Muhlkrreis. The camp ground was closed but exhausted we squeezed between the fence and pitched just in time as thunder and lightening brought rain and with the rain, unhindered sleep.
Earlier sheep had stopped their grazing to stare, also a tractor blasting AC/DC towing a trailer of young revellers seated at a wooden table, cheered, us silently wobbling, up and up, I wanted to wave an arm both to the tractor and the sheep but it took all my remaining concentration to keep the handlebars steady and bike on the road. It felt like balancing a bike almost stationary up the greater inclines.
In the morning we had our fill of pastries and second coffees in Aigen Im Muhlkreis before a slow often push , rather than pedal in the mist towards the Czech Republic. Then we were flying, then hitting the brakes as the border came into view. A small sign and more alarming, a change in road surface not suited to 53km per hour in any vehicle.
We took obligatory photographs before I peed simultaneously in two countries. Not trying to be a smart arse, you really go need to take any opportunity to go to the loo when cycle touring. There was no one around and despite a relatively rural route we have never been far from the sound of people, farmers, walkers, cars, trains, so a pit stop must be taken at every opportunity.
We then made our winding way through
farms and villages, turned back as roads became tracks then quagmires, tadpoles and leaches, found the major road 39 leading to Chesky Krumlov, UNESCO heritage site, and straight to Hostell 99.
It appears not many people arrive and then leave Chesky. Welcomed by expats and Czech alike we celebrated our arrival until 2am. Conversation flowed, we were introduced to “liquid bread”, followed by a mighty hangover and and extra days rest and exploration of this magical old town. It is probably fortunate that the tight “S” shaped river that wraps the old town was fast and ready to burst. Usually at this time of year the river bars are full of people floating from one end to the other and I suspect we would have lost ourselves to Chesky Kromlov.

Austria and bike porn

Jules — Sun, 05 May 2013 18:15:21 +0000

Riding in Austria for only a day and one morning I am in the saddle, finding my body and mind on a roller coaster, mirrored similarity to the hills we are experiencing. We are heading for the Czech border, Lake Lipno.
The journey has instantly changed course becoming hard despite 43 days of what i thought was conditioning for this. Still, I am loving it.
Like foreplay, slowly building up, down, up, up, hurting, but good hurting, flowers , yellow and meadows , far as eyes can see, white flowers, cut grass, freshly turned soil, pines, scents, the sun burning, wind tickling the body, drowning out sounds, then symphonies of bird calls, buzzing and tractors, fears of not reaching the top, teasing the mind then euphoria of a summit and rushing down the other side. All too soon and another climb. Panting, gasping, loosing control, resting, wet, vibrating, hands, feet, ears. Then it’s cold and body tingling, then hot, cold. Breath vapour, sun behind clouds. This is not a boring ride, even the farms, smell of manure, all part of the play, experience, feeling alive and strong. This is tingling and this is sensual. On and off the bike, it’s heavy, and some descents so steep, even considered getting off for a down hill as the road dips out of sight.
I am still smiling, and thinking of the bike porn film festival I attended a year or so ago. A good looking bike easily turns my head…..but….porn?
Finally I get it.

Czech Republic maybe day after….hills!

Jules — Sat, 04 May 2013 16:24:46 +0000

Leaving Passau, and Germany was a breeze. It has been raining in the evenings but not during the past 3 days and as we hit the saddle the sun started to shine. After a rest day to plan our route, legs were feeling strong, body and mind fit and we complete 35 kilometres well before lunch often sitting on 25km hour. This was getting easy! The route we have followed from Donaueschingen the start of the Danube river has been mostly flat, with enough hills to stop us getting bored, even a few that at a gradient if 20 percent got us off our bikes, these hills were few and far between. At 35km we real sides we were no longer in Germany despite no markers to state entering Austria, the route continues along the river all the way to the Black Sea.
We chose to exit at this point and head north towards Prague. (Cocky and finding the ride easy we are scheduled to be in Vienna for a rendezvous and are traveling too fast.)
Not fast for long, immediately we climb for 4 kilometres a gradient around 16 percent at a guess. The legs feel it, lungs gasp but we both make it to the top and decide it isn’t so bad……and hills for next 40km. I am having a beer my legs are feeling it but the ride is sensual and beautiful and I like Austria, the little I have seen makes my body and mind sing.

Czech Republic tomorrow and have past 2000km

Jules — Fri, 03 May 2013 16:46:16 +0000

We are currently in Passau and the end if our German leg of the journey. Blogs have been spars due to almost nil Internet.
But who needs the Internet when we have live German snakes, dead German snakes and ticks.
I have had the excitement of the live creatures. Li gets the dead variety. Trying to ignore the tick stuck in my arm, pretending to myself I am enjoying a rare shower that will run out of hot water unless I produce another non existent token. I wash and dry off….hate anything with more than four legs….but am now an adventurer so nonchalantly stroll back to tent and request Li extract it…..now!
And I like snakes. But my body still reacts as if I don’t…. so tries to wrap my feet about my ears as I race across it recoiling just like a spring. The snake….and me simultaneously. Only problem is I now know I can’t raise my feet even as high as the handle bars. Without thinking my feet remain firmly in my shoes, firmly attached to pedals with cleats. I will try and perfect a quick release before reaching an area where snakes are venomous.
There is a lot more to Germany than the wild life and I will put my thoughts down as soon as technology permits. But we are safe, enjoying the sun, another rarity, enjoying the ride, celebrating over 2000 km and further than planned. Tomorrow we take a detour, hopefully to Prague and leave the Danube behind for a time.