Romania, Gruia to Corabia

Jules — Thu, 27 Jun 2013 19:27:14 +0000

Since my short ride uphill without luggage I have been contemplating off loading my winter gear which takes up the majority of one pannier and about 4 kilos. Just in case, and for once we hit altitude, it’s all packed at the bottom, along with my rain gear. A merino long sleeve came out again yesterday, we had even used our sleeping bags to take away the chill overnight and if I wasn’t lying in a hotel bed with a mild stomach upset today the goretex gear would have been out. Thunderstorms have rolled in the past 2 evenings and this morning the booming thunder claps were joined with a torrent of rain at our estimate time of departure.
I am not traveling anywhere. Apart from a few unpleasant trips to the bathroom I am sleeping, writing, quickly recovering and thankful I am not today experiencing the elements as the sky grumbles and my inner workings along with it.
The part of Romania bordering the Danube continues to have very little accommodation. After leaving the previous hotel our first camp experience was one of necessity with absolutely no options and dark quickly approaching. We had attempted to ask numerous locals about camping but were directed to a town 50km away. We have been advised and read advice, not to ride at night, depending upon who you talk to, because of thieves, or just pot holes, poor roads, non existent lighting and drunk drivers. We did not want to ride at night due to exhaustion , Li still recovering from her bug and the nasty distaste in my mouth, leaving our other potential accommodation too far back, behind us, after fleeing the only 2 unpleasant encounters we have had in over 4000 kilometres. Not dangerous encounters but annoying, sleazy and disrespectful men that had me seething enough to have at least a fantastic swift, furiously fast 50 kilometres ride further than planned.
So the camp site…..communicating our needs proved difficult, riding much further was not possible and we were left hazy as to whether responses to camp near villages was acceptable.
The country side is mostly flat and gentle hills with fields as far as the eye can see. Very little cover, and there are always people, or at least a person in our view, tending crops, herding animals or in small shepherds huts.
Finally we spot a small track between fields of corn and sunflowers. Both are tall and close to harvest. The track bends towards the flowers and up a small hill, below the hill a small water catchment enabled the water reeds and small bushes to hide our view from the road. The bend in the path hid us from both directions and adjacent us sunflowers illuminated by the setting sun, obscured us from the remaining directions. If not for our unease at camping uninvited on a farmers land, their livelihood, the place was idyllic.
From our camp just outside Bistret we rode 100 kilometres to Corabia, and took up in a hotel rather than struggle to find another place to pitch our tent. I have read seething reviews of this part of the Danube Bike Trail, that it is monotonous and boring. I have found it anything but boring, overtaking more vehicles than we are overtaken ourselves. The road was described as with moderate traffic but the few cars and trucks are courteous, we feel safe, and enjoy the friendly waves and cheers when overtaking the people on ancient bicycles or horses and carts. The sky has been filled with sun beams, breaking the clouds….and the fields, golden wheat, yellow full flowers, lush green corn. The colours, the smells, are vibrant and alive.
Tomorrow we have decided to ride a final day before leaving the Danube and heading south east into Bulgaria in the early evening. We will not cross at this border in Corabia patrolled by police that think it is acceptable to talk about a strangers assumed sexuality in a language they assume we do not know. Some words are the same in any language and I am currently unimpressed with many Romanian men.
It will be raining and despite the mountains that await we will hold onto our warm gear. It’s a lot of luggage but it is treating us well.

Shops and toilet rolls

Jules — Tue, 25 Jun 2013 10:44:15 +0000

Monday 24th June…..Li is sick. 2 days prior on our 1st whole day in Romania we discovered banks, shops and accommodation are all to be far more scarce than in the other rural areas we have travelled through. We had enough cash and food for a few days, also carrying extra water due to the heat. Rather than 2-3 litres, as the heat has intensified we have carried 6-7 litres each and top up at every opportunity. We have been invited into a home to use their well for cold water and to freshen up. The people are friendly, their are many villages and hydrating should not be a problem.
There are no camp sites in this area about 80 kilometres from the border crossing at The Iron Gates, Portile de Fier 1. Arriving in the village, Gruigu, I tried my pictionary skills, drawing a basic tent and writing a few words from the phrase book. We were directed to a hotel on the banks of the Danube. On the way down the hill I tried my antics again, approaching a hut with 5 very large dogs, barking dogs, and asking a shepherd if we could camp. Again we were directed to the hotel. At first we were surprised there is actually a hotel here…..but still we wanted to camp. Getting dark, the air swarming with mosquitoes we ask the hotel if we can camp. Only rooms, 80 lei, about 18 euros we decide its above budget but…..they have air con! We can self cater, and compared to UK this is entirely affordable.
Setting the alarm early to beat the heat and push on, at 5.30am, we struggle to get up and make the decision that we will have a rest day. This is absolutely fantastic to me, no city sights, there is nothing to do here but read, write, watch crap TV, and sit on the balcony soaking up the atmosphere with sheep, goats, dogs and geese. A Sunday, locals are also enjoying the sun, folk and Romanian pop music. Just what we desire after riding the bikes every day for the past 17 days. At about 4pm there is a knock on the door, to see if we are ok, as we had not emerged from our room for 8 hours. I have not been this lazy in years, it is bliss. A thunder storm approaches in the early evening and we enjoy the coolness it brings with it, enjoy the sounds and the light show over Serbia across the river.
So 2 nights at the hotel, set alarm for 5.30am…..and Li is sick…..nausea and vomiting. We have just enough cash for the hotel but no more food with the next assumed bank machine being 65km away. Maybe i could ride 130 kilometres, maybe they have a bank? . We carry medication for vomiting, diarrhoea and rehydrating but decide its better for Li’s illness to run its course. Fortunately we have some euros.
I explain Li’s predicament to the hotel owners with arm waving and belly rubbing, fingers and gurgling sounds. They will accept euros……And I receive a sympathetic smile, touch on the arm…..and more toilet paper!
I ride up the hill 2 kilometres into the village. Actually I wobble…..the hill I was dreading is now easy, following a days rest and without luggage. However without the luggage my bicycle now feels twitchy and unstable as I am unused to such light riding.
The small shop will also accept euros and I purchase basic vegetables, sausage, cheese, bread, very sweet cereal, fanta and importantly, beer for myself. It was all behind the counter. The other shoppers…locals having a get together, become involved with my order….helpful attempts at translation….cereal, maybe muesli?…. honey flavoured circles will do. Coasting down the hill I wait on the road for the shepherd to move the sheep across and am back at the hotel.
We contemplate whether we have not washed our vegetables, our hands properly, bad water?
Tuesday 25th June, Li is fine, waking up at 5.30am is not fine but we beat the heat, 10 degrees cooler and another days adventure awaits.
Oh…..the honey circles taste like Nutrigrain….Li has no idea what I am talking about so I will buy her a box when we hit Oz.

Bamboo Odyssey » Romania | Bamboo Odyssey

Romania, Gruia to Corabia

Shops and toilet rolls