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cycle touring

Dogs and pepper spray?

I can’t get the lid off the pepper spray. Li says its ok! Ok for me to exit the tent! Midnight we are woken by the sound of a motorbike…..headlight…..it stops directly by the door. I am terrified…..why would anyone approach a lone tent in the middle of the night? …

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Turkey has almost broken me.

Turkey has almost broken me. Day 2 out of Istanbul. Around 40 degrees and the mountains become steep. Close to tears….not due to the beauty this time….self loathing and doubt. Li rides ahead and I push. I can’t push, 5 steps….rest….there is no rest…there is no shade….it’s too hot. A …

Raging nature

We were resorted to pushing our bikes, our luggage, downhill! The damn wind, it terrified me, all over the road, standing still on the verge, trucks sucked us into their air stream. A straight line was impossible. At first we pushed on the incline, then unnerved, wobbling, on the flats, …

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Bulgaria

We were chased by dogs to the Romanian checkpoint, then with a trouble free wave we were through and onto the ferry. Zimnicea is the border crossing with Bulgaria that is generally used by trucks. There was one truck, one car, 2 foot passengers and us, being 2 bicycles, I …

Romania, Gruia to Corabia

Since my short ride uphill without luggage I have been contemplating off loading my winter gear which takes up the majority of one pannier and about 4 kilos. Just in case, and for once we hit altitude, it’s all packed at the bottom, along with my rain gear. A merino …